This rambles, but…that’s the way love goes.

It may be gauche for an American to compare a distinctly non-American city to an American one, but indulge me for a moment, please. Imagine, if you will, New York in summer – without the iconic but overbearing skyscrapers or the ubiquitous scent of urine in the subways, but with the oft-stifling humidity. And the multiple, simultaneous music and cultural festivals happening any given weekend. And the walkable, energy-filled neighborhoods. And the intensely striking variation of skin tones and ethnic origins. And the taxed but generally efficient transport system connecting all the good stuff on offer. Comparing the place to New York would be the easiest, admittedly most half-hearted way to describe Canada’s second- and Quebec’s largest city, Montreal. So I’ll try to do better in the next paragraph.

During one oh-so-short weekend, I trekked up to the summit of Mount Royal, only to trek back down again and cool off at the rooftop pool of a nearby gym (pools are big in landlocked Montreal) surrounded by dozens of sun worshippers soaking it all up while they could. I ate spicy Lebanese sausage and yellow Thai curry and chicken shawarma slathered in hummus and brick-oven pizza and organic bread with unprocessed butter (tasted funny) and a heaping plate of that local French fries/gravy/cheese curd combo called poutine. I discovered my summer anthem (by British electro phenoms Disclosure) and twisted my foot fooling around to a Romanian brass band at the Jazz Fest and recovered in time for a romp at the Piknic Électronik, followed by an all-night afterparty with a clutch of new friends in a three-story rowhouse with a wrought-iron balcony. I asked “Parlez-vous anglais?” to Middle Eastern first aid responders (my foot, remember?) and black convenience store cashiers and Chinese-Malagasy waitresses and sweet little old white ladies in souvenir shops and received a “yes” (or a reflexive “oui”) and a smile every single time. I discussed American politics and Brazilian politics and Quebecois politics and the Quebecois independence movement and the Quebecois fascination with wintering in South Florida and summering in New England. I spent an afternoon marveling at the city with a fellow Murkin travel writer who had just spent a month in Paris and proclaimed her love for Montreal within a week of arriving in the Western Hemisphere’s largest French-speaking city. I responded to her with my own profession of love for Montreal.

Before last weekend, I didn’t know much about Montreal. I didn’t know that the city was as multicultural as it is, with all types of French being spoken by folks with roots all over the globe. I didn’t know that Montreal’s particular brand of French was so appealingly full-bodied, brash, and funky. I didn’t know that its people would be so unfailingly attractive, with Old World style, New World swagger, and a visible profusion of good genes. I didn’t know that many Quebecois do still feel a deep disconnect from the rest of Anglophone Canada as a marginalized people (boy, how I can relate to that!). I didn’t know that I could walk down the street in Montreal and fit right into the mosaic as if I belonged. I didn’t know I’d feel as if I belonged in Montreal. But I did, and Montreal smiled.

Forget Paris. Montreal, je t’aime.

Poutine (with pepperoni)
Poutine (with pepperoni) and a Coke Zero. Avoid empty calories.
Coccinelle cider
Coccinelle cider. It refreshes!
First aid station
My foot hurts and you laughin’, MF?!
Old and New Montreal
Something old, something new.
Montreal subway swag
Montreal subway swag.

Shaky video of the Piknic Électronik:

The Fly Brother Summer Anthem 2013:

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  1. Montreal is one my favorite cities. Hope you get to go back again soon for a longer stretch. You might find yourself putting it up there with São Paulo in your list of favorite cities. Just love the general vibe of the place. I don’t know how you got there, but I found a good way to get there from where I live on the east coast is to fly into Burlington, Vermont, and then drive into Montreal- about a 90 minute drive. For me it was cheaper than flying direct into Montreal, and you don’t have to do the ” show up at least 2 hours before international flight rule.”

    • It is now officially on the list, along with SP, of favorite cities. I think I’m going to visit in winter, just to see how I’d fare. I could definitely see myself living there in the summer, at least. Thanks for that tip on avoiding high airfares directly into YUL!

  2. Hey! It always warms my heart to see people loving my city (I’m possessive that way!)! I traveled quite a bit, and frankly, I have yet to find a place as homely as Montreal. If you come in winter, 2 things to keep in mind: 1) brace yourself for the cold and snow (I’m still not quite used to it and I lived here all my life!) 2) the cold and snow don’t stop us from outdoor activities! The weekends in January are for Igloofest (same organizers as Pinik Electronik) and February is for Festival en Lumières – different activities going on around the city, culminating to the All-Nighter (usually the last Saturday of February), when all the museums, art galleries , music venues, etc., are open all night! Everyone, young and old, is out having a good time!

  3. Glad to hear you loved our city! It has it’s faults (no place is perfect) but it’s also a great city to visit for a few days, especially for Americans who maybe haven’t made it to Europe.
    Great blog,
    Frank (bbqboy)

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